9/28/2021 0 Comments Hero Ingredient : RetinolIn a skincare market saturated with products that claim to eliminate wrinkles, plump skin, erase sun damage and so much more, it can be hard to separate scientifically based claims from marketing shams.
But if there’s one thing that medical professionals seem to agree on, it’s that retinol is effective in reducing the signs of aging. A brief history of retinol In the late 1960s, American dermatologist Dr. Albert Klingman discovered that tretinoin – which is part of a class of vitamin A derivatives known as retinoids – was a highly effective treatment for acne. It was marketed as Retin-A and it’s still available to treat problem skin today. But when some of Dr. Klingman’s patients started to notice that their skin was becoming smoother, less wrinkled and less blotchy, he realized that retinoids were also potent anti-aging compounds. This landmark finding led him to develop another tretinoin cream called Renova to fight what he called “photoaging” due to sun exposure. Today, tretinoin (also known as retinoic acid) is available in prescription strength from a dermatologist or in its much gentler form, retinol, in over-the-counter products. Retinol converts into retinoic acid once it’s applied to the skin, and while it’s not as potent as its prescription cousin, there’s plenty of scientific evidence to prove that it works. One major review published in the journal Dermato-Endocrinology in 2012 concluded that retinol has positive effects not only on extrinsic aging (photoaging), but also on intrinsic skin aging (chronological aging), and it has a strong positive effect on collagen metabolism. What are the different forms of vitamin A? Confused about the difference between retinoids, retinol, retinoic acid and tretinoin? Here’s a quick guide to the various forms of vitamin A. Retinoids: Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A. They include retinoic acid (also called tretinoin) and retinol. Retinoic acid (tretinoin): This is a potent retinoid found in prescription creams. While it’s very effective, it can cause redness and irritation during the first couple of weeks of use until the skin adapts to it. Retinol: Chemically an alcohol, retinol is a gentler version of retinoic acid found in over-the-counter products. It may still cause some skin irritation. Retinyl palmitate: A combination of the ester of retinol and palmitic acid (a saturated fatty acid), retinyl palmitate converts to retinol and then to retinoic acid once it’s applied to the skin. Because it’s even gentler than retinol, it can be used by people with sensitive skin. Retinyl acetate: This is another ester of retinol which is also less irritating than retinol and retinoic acid. How does retinol work? Retinoids – including retinol – speed up the turnover of skin cells, eliminating sun spots and improving the texture of the skin. They also reduce the breakdown of collagen, which helps the skin maintain its firmness and elasticity, and minimize the appearance of wrinkles. Because of the important body of scientific evidence to support the efficacy of retinoids, they’re highly recommended by dermatologists to fight the signs of aging. How should retinol be used? Start by applying a pea-sized amount of an over-the-counter retinol product to your face every second night. It’s best to start slowly because retinol can cause irritation for the first two weeks until your skin gets used to it. You can use moisturizer to combat dryness during this initial period. Apply retinol at night because sunlight can reduce its effectiveness, and always use a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher while using retinoids because they can make your skin more sensitive to the sun. What should I look for on the label and when can I expect results? Over-the-counter products generally don’t state how much retinol they contain, but they range between 0.5 per cent and 1 per cent retinol. You should start to see noticeable results within three to six months of daily use. Prescription retinoids can start to work in six to eight weeks.
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5/10/2021 0 Comments Pollution + SkinEnvironmental aggressors including ultraviolet radiation, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), oxides, and cigarette smoke affect the skin, and can leave it more susceptible to many problems including irritation, rashes, eczema, breakouts, hyperpigmentation, sagging, fine lines and wrinkles, and overall dullness. Although our skin acts as biological armor, prolonged or repetitive exposure to high levels of these pollutants may have profound negative effects on it. This happens because highly unstable molecules (aka free radicals), start to damage the skin’s natural protective barrier. Once this barrier is jeopardized, pollutants can seep deep into our skin, speeding up the degradation of the cells, causing collagen and lipids to start to break down. Cleansing is key, and the evening routine is incredibly important to remove the day’s harmful surface pollution. Pollution can be found in all climates, at all times of the year. In the summer, UV is especially potent, and in the winter, there is surface inversion - when the ground level becomes cooler and denser than higher air, trapping pollutants. When it comes to products that help combat pollution, we need to look for ones with effective concentrations of anti-pollution ingredients. These include vitamins C and E, niacinamide, ceramide 3, green tea, prebiotics, zinc oxide and other mineral barriers. By forming a protective film over the skin, pollution particles are prevented from attaching to or penetrating the skin and antioxidants help reduce the signs of inflammation and help restore the skin barrier. Below are some of Cathia’s picks: Environ’s Complete Anti-Pollution Spritz This spritz assists in effectively calming, rebalancing and strengthening the effects of the skin’s resistance against the harmful effects of pollution. This lightweight, fragrance-free spritz creates a powerful daily protective shield, assisting in protecting against the visible signs of pollution damaged skin, i.e. reducing the effects of oxidative stress and the effects of rebalancing the microbiome, leaving the skin looking less inflamed and healthy. Environ’s Purifying Anti-Pollution Masque
This masque assists in absorbing skin impurities, while soothing, moisturizing and protecting the appearance of a compromised barrier function. This multifunctional masque, scientifically formulated with charcoal and special botanicals, assists in purifying pores by absorbing pollutant impurities, while soothing, moisturizing and protecting the look of a compromised barrier function as a result of harmful reactive oxygen species (ROS). 3/15/2021 0 Comments High FrequencyWe use a variety of technologies in each of our customized treatments depending on a client’s skin condition on the day that we see them. High frequency is used in our facials to treat acne, stimulate collagen production, and increase blood flow, resulting in a clearer, brighter complexion.
Frequency describes the number of electric waves that pass a fixed place in a given amount of time. Waves with the shortest wavelengths have the highest frequencies which are between 3 to 30 megahertz (MHz). High frequency safely stimulates the skin using thermal energy which triggers blood flow and the production of collagen and elastin. The current generates a rush of blood to the treatment site, which causes the blood vessels right beneath the surface of the skin to dilate. This dilation pushes away toxins in the bloodstream and pollutants buried within the skin. Ozone, an activated form of oxygen that has three oxygen atoms and provides a more abundant supply to cells is formed by the argon gas in the electrode and the electrical current. This increases cellular turnover, kills harmful bacteria and diminishes inflammation, which reduces and treats acne. We harness the electrical current through a wand device with a glass electrode to safely transfer it directly into your skin. In our treatments, we typically perform high frequency after extractions as it ensures a quicker healing process. While high frequency is safe and effective for many people, there are exceptions.
1/11/2021 0 Comments RosaceaRosacea is an extremely common skin condition and one of the toughest conditions to reduce. While there is no cure, there are many ways to control it. Understanding what it is and what triggers it is the first step.
Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that causes redness and, in more serious cases, pus-filled red bumps on the skin. While rosacea can occur in anyone, it most commonly affects middle-aged women, and is more visible on those who have lighter complexions. Rosacea is caused by abnormalities in the blood vessels, which result in flushing and persistent redness usually around the cheeks and nose. Flare ups can range from one day to one month, however, they usually last about a week. Although there is no one cause of this skin condition (many credit it to genetics), there are many things that can trigger a flare up. Environmental factors including prolonged sun exposure, extreme heat or cold, and strong winds can exacerbate rosacea. Similarly, stress, heavy exercise, hot showers and certain foods can also contribute to flare ups. Consuming alcohol and spicy foods raise our body temperature and dilate blood vessels, making the skin appear redder and causing a flare up. The same goes for refined sugars, some processed meats, and even high quantities of citrus fruits. Many skincare products that use strong ingredients such as retinol, astringents, essential oils, strong acids, and high concentrations of vitamin C can also cause rosacea flare ups. Even some hair sprays, especially those containing alcohol, witch hazel, or fragrance are also secret triggers. Wearing a daily SPF will help to protect your skin from the sun, keeping redness at ease. Vitamin E is also a great option, as it is a natural anti-inflammatory and will help repair damaged skin. You should also look to your diet to manage flare ups, because as mentioned, gut health is a large contributor to the skin’s appearance. Limit your intake of alcohol, spicy foods, and processed foods/sugars. There are also many beauty and skincare products dedicated to reducing the appearance of rosacea. Because rosacea is an inflammatory skin condition, you should look for products that are formulated with gentle, soothing ingredients that aim to reduce skin inflammation. 1/5/2021 0 Comments The Importance of Toners!Our skin is naturally acidic, typically with a pH balance of between 5 - 6 (on a scale from 0 - 14). Pollutants, detergents, soaps, cleansers, and even water (among many other things) can disrupt those levels.
When we cleanse, our pH balance can get thrown off. Yes, our skin might be clean, but it is not at its ideal levels. When skin is not at its proper pH level, it can become oily or tight, which why toning is crucial. Toning after cleansing restores skin to a state where moisturizers and serums can be absorbed efficiently and effectively. They can be repairing, hydrating, balancing and smoothing on the skin’s surface, and can be used for every skin condition. Often times we forget that skin is the largest organ in the body. Just like our stomachs or livers after a long night out, it’s important to regenerate and restore the organ to its proper levels. So, what exactly is toner? When your skin produces excess oil, it becomes acidic. So, a lot of facial cleansers have a “basic” pH level to combat this acidic, oily skin. These can make the skin a bit dry and if moisturizer is skipped, skin will become dehydrated. This is why toner is so crucial. Most toners will have the optimal level to balance out the dryer, more alkaline skin after washing. When it comes to picking the toner that is right for your skin, avoid alcohol based products as they can be very drying. Pro tip: When applying, don’t rub the skin. Saturate a cotton round with the product, or use your hands—press and release the toner on to your face, neck, and don’t forget about the décolletage. |
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